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Post by way2loud on Apr 8, 2016 16:10:14 GMT 1
Alla delar är lösa än så länge men nu börjar man se hur den blir. Kvarstår kanter som ska rundas av, mera finputsning och målning med klarlack, volymkontroll och jack ska monteras. Kroppen är i massiv al i ett stycke. Det blir nog ingen tonkontroll, jag använder sällan den. Och benderspakarna ska kapas av till hälften ungefär. Jag har lämnat plats till ett riktigt Duesenberg multibender stall om jag skulle bli sugen senare. Mitt stall ser lite hemmagjort ut, ska se om jag kan sätta en kåpa över kanske. Greppbrädan, som bara är till hjälp, gjorde jag av en bit av en gammal dörrtröskel i nån sorts hardwood. "Banden" är av tunna remsor ek och de runda dotsen är också små bitar ek som jag stansade ut med ett hålslag. Mensuren är 571 mm, alltså lite kortare än en vanlig gitarr. Stränghöjden blir ca 10-12mm. Pickupen är den Valco Supro string-thru kopia som jag gjorde tidigare (se annan tråd, ackegura.proboards.com/thread/14218/lindningsmaskin-samt-lapsteel-pickup) och stallet är ett gammalt japanskt svajstall från en sextiotals ZenOn som jag kapat, strimlat och vänt bakfram. Sträng 2 och 3 kan höjas ett helt resp halvt tonsteg mha två spakar. Dessa strängar har seperata rullstall med rullar från gamla stålsträngar. Sadeln är en bit kromad klädkrok som förekommer i bl.a skolor. Mera kommer kanske så småningom.  |
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Post by favino on Apr 8, 2016 21:28:31 GMT 1
Fint! Gillar formen - Barbamamma med lång hals, eller moraklocka på syra.. Apropå moraklockor o målning, skulle den inte se fräck ut i "dala orange" med kurbitsmålning på? typ dalomaudio dalomaudio.seDå är även chansen stor att du skulle kunna få en slant för den av Yngström eller Kalle Moreus. Fast om du har någon annan ide´ så tänker jag inte bråka om det. Tonkontroller är fånigt, bra val enligt mig! Vad ska du spela då? Cåntry eller Vingar för pengarna? Det här kräver väl också att du bygger din egen förstärkare? Men du har säkert redan börjat. Jag ger min (av lackförtunning uttorkade) tumme upp! |
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larrys
Musiker av rang
To Boldly Go Where No Man Has Gone Before....
Posts: 103
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Post by larrys on Apr 9, 2016 0:59:06 GMT 1
That lapsteel looks vaguely familiar.... ;-)
I have watched your posts about building and winding pickups with interest, and I think you will have a beautiful, functional guitar when you are finished!
I like it! Nicely done!
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Post by way2loud on Apr 9, 2016 14:16:10 GMT 1
Formen - ja jag använde en treliters färgburk till nedre delen och en full rulle gaffatejp till övre delen och midjorna. Repertoar vet jag ej, jag har faktiskt aldrig spelat lapsteel, bara lite vanlig slide. Men Ry Cooder är väl representerad i skivhyllan. Jag tänkte klar polyuretanlack, men nu får jag väl tänka ett varv till.... Efter att ha haft stora problem med sneda skär på min bandsåg köpte jag nya blad på www.bandsagblad.se. Kan rekommenderas, nu klyver den perfekt rakt, så jag vågade mig på att såga ut lap steel kroppen. That lapsteel looks vaguely familiar.... ;-) I have watched your posts about building and winding pickups with interest, and I think you will have a beautiful, functional guitar when you are finished! I like it! Nicely done! Thank you for the nice words! What string gauge would be optimal for this lap steel, (scale = 22.5 inch) ? I have a .13 gauge conventional electric set available, but perhaps that isn't heavy enough? |
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sfe
Besserwisser
Det tråkiga med att vara pessimist är att man så ofta har rätt.
Posts: 2,950
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Post by sfe on Apr 9, 2016 16:58:20 GMT 1
Kan bara instämma. Efter att ha köpt sågblad på bandsågblad.se så har jag upplevt hur bra min bandsåg faktiskt är. Det är en ENORM skillnad mellan dessa blad och de man köper i den allmänna fixardetaljhandeln. Prisskillnaden är däremot inte enorm.
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larrys
Musiker av rang
To Boldly Go Where No Man Has Gone Before....
Posts: 103
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Post by larrys on Apr 9, 2016 17:18:59 GMT 1
Since you haven't played very much, you will have to get used to the instrument first. As time goes on, you will develop a more confident approach to playing, and the firmness of your "touch" on the strings with the steel will change. That will probably mean that you will want heavier strings...
Personally, I use .16-.19-.26-.36-.46-.56 and then I replace the 1st string with .18 plain string. It's a very heavy set, but it gives the ability to "dig in" and play forcefully.
See how you get on with what you have.
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Post by way2loud on Apr 9, 2016 19:54:48 GMT 1
Since you haven't played very much, you will have to get used to the instrument first. As time goes on, you will develop a more confident approach to playing, and the firmness of your "touch" on the strings with the steel will change. That will probably mean that you will want heavier strings... Personally, I use .16-.19-.26-.36-.46-.56 and then I replace the 1st string with .18 plain string. It's a very heavy set, but it gives the ability to "dig in" and play forcefully. See how you get on with what you have. I'll keep that in mind and try out my .13 set first. One thing I have noticed when watching Youtube clips is that lap steel players sometimes angle the playing steel to get other chords then the original open-chord tuning. What is the theory behind this, different angles, different strings etc? |
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Post by favino on Apr 9, 2016 21:07:50 GMT 1
Ry Cooder låter som en riktigt bra plan! Ser fram emot att höra ett klipp vad det lider..
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larrys
Musiker av rang
To Boldly Go Where No Man Has Gone Before....
Posts: 103
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Post by larrys on Apr 9, 2016 21:34:21 GMT 1
"Slant-bar" positions with the steel are just a method of playing different chords. On a regular guitar, you can play different strings at the same fret or at different frets to make chords. On steel guitar it works the same way. The bar can cover strings at the same fret or at different frets. The bar can be slanted forwards or backwards, but slants on steel guitar are usually limited to two strings only. Backward slants give ample opportunity to drop the steel on the floor. (I know, I've done it :-) )
This is why the pedal steel guitar was invented. Players wanted a way to change the tones within a chord WITHOUT having to slant the bar. Pedals allow you to do that.
But then some smart pedal steel player comes along and disregards all that... (I shot this video in Nashville. Paul Franklin is doing backward slants on pedal steel guitar. Watch the expression on the guitar player's face....)
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Post by way2loud on Apr 9, 2016 21:46:25 GMT 1
Ry Cooder låter som en riktigt bra plan! Ser fram emot att höra ett klipp vad det lider.. Alltså......en länk säger mer än tusen ord: |
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Post by way2loud on Apr 9, 2016 22:17:33 GMT 1
"Slant-bar" positions with the steel are just a method of playing different chords. On a regular guitar, you can play different strings at the same fret or at different frets to make chords. On steel guitar it works the same way. The bar can cover strings at the same fret or at different frets. The bar can be slanted forwards or backwards, but slants on steel guitar are usually limited to two strings only. Backward slants give ample opportunity to drop the steel on the floor. (I know, I've done it :-) ) This is why the pedal steel guitar was invented. Players wanted a way to change the tones within a chord WITHOUT having to slant the bar. Pedals allow you to do that. But then some smart pedal steel player comes along and disregards all that... (I shot this video in Nashville. Paul Franklin is doing backward slants on pedal steel guitar. Watch the expression on the guitar player's face....) If I get this right....you mean that pedal steel players use both the pedals and the slanting technique at the same time? And with two multibender rods on a lap steel it is possible to do the same tricks as when you slant the steel bar? |
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larrys
Musiker av rang
To Boldly Go Where No Man Has Gone Before....
Posts: 103
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Post by larrys on Apr 10, 2016 0:08:53 GMT 1
No, not both at the same time, but certainly one after the other... I think the video shows him just showing off a little bit... He IS the best player that the instrument has ever known!
There is one other technique that is used to change the pitch of strings in a chord on lapsteel, and that is pulling a string behind the bar. In this video, watch his little finger BEHIND the bar... It is very difficult to do this because the string must remain in contact with the bar. If it is pushed down away from the bar, it goes dead. Notice also, that this allows you to form 3-note chords, as well as doing pedal effects.
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larrys
Musiker av rang
To Boldly Go Where No Man Has Gone Before....
Posts: 103
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Post by larrys on Apr 10, 2016 0:24:52 GMT 1
This sounds like a country pedal steel... He's doing a combination of pulls, and slants.He might be using a volume pedal too...? It looks like his knee drops from time to time...
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Post by way2loud on Apr 10, 2016 6:47:55 GMT 1
Wow, who needs a multibender bridge..... but I guess it is far more difficult than it looks.
Can't wait to get my lap steel completed now.
Thanks for sharing all these playing techniques!
When I first started this project the intention was to use bicycle wires attached to sustain pedals at one end and to the string bender bridge at the other end.
My biggest concern was if the sound from the wire friction would be transferred to the strings and to the pickup.
So - I made a test rig with the bridge and the pickup, one bender mechanism and one string connected to one wire and one simple foot pedal.
The test showed that almost no sound from the wire was transferred to the pickup, so that went very well.
But during the process I realized that I probably needed one foot for a volume pedal also, so I decided to try a conventional multibender bridge instead.
Is a volume pedal the best option, or is it possible to use a dynamic compressor pedal instead, fx MXR Dynacomp or similar ?
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stinkey
Jag är en forumsnörd
Posts: 1,387
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Post by stinkey on Apr 10, 2016 19:09:38 GMT 1
En volympedal gör en enormt stor skillnad, om man vill låta "kontry"!
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